For surfers, finding the “sweet spot,” the most powerful part of the wave, is part of the thrill and the challenge.
Scripps Institution of Oceanography at the University of California postdoctoral researcher Nick Pizzo has found the exact location on the wave where a surfer gains...
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https://skpsoft.com/science/researcher-studies-waves-to-help-better-forecast-weather-climate-sciencedaily/
Friday, June 30, 2017
Researcher studies waves to help better forecast weather, climate -- ScienceDaily
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